We had a low key afternoon our 1st day in Varenna. It is mama mia hot…90+ We had an inexpensive dinner at Victoria Grill. We showed up too early for dinner (7:15), so had to hang out until 7:30.We split a Quattro formaggio pizza, 2 salads and an ice cold beer for 20 Euros, We were lucky enough to sit behind an ugly American who announced she had been an Italy a week and didn’t know a word of Italian. When the waiter wasn’t quick enough for her, she laughed and said “we’re Americans, that’s why we want things fast”. It when on and on.
After dinner we walked the passerella, a lakeside promenade, It is a beautiful town with steep paths with many stairs that I avoided. Of course, all of that walking in the heat called for gelato. Limone and caffe were the 1st flavors. A bit more walking and I wanted another gelato. Ken wasn’t interested until he tasted my new favorite flavor from
La Giazzera gelateria. It is an amarena (sour cherry). A beautiful evening, with great food. The mosquitoes couldn’t even ruin it.
After dinner we walked the passerella, a lakeside promenade, It is a beautiful town with steep paths with many stairs that I avoided. Of course, all of that walking in the heat called for gelato. Limone and caffe were the 1st flavors. A bit more walking and I wanted another gelato. Ken wasn’t interested until he tasted my new favorite flavor from
La Giazzera gelateria. It is an amarena (sour cherry). A beautiful evening, with great food. The mosquitoes couldn’t even ruin it. I forgot to tell an airport story that Joel will especially like. In Paris, as I was going through security, I was trying to explain that I would set off the alarm. I pointed to myself and said “beep, beep, beep, beep”. As the woman was doing my all too familiar “lady pat down”, she noticed the pedometer I forgot I had on my belt. She looked so alarmed and wanted to know what it was. I said “walking. counting” She called someone over who knew what it was. So, a travel tip: don’t go through airport security with a small device that has changing numbers on it strapped to your belt. For a minute, I had a vision of me face down with dogs on me. Aren’t you glad you weren’t with me Joel?
Monday: We started today with breakfast on the hotel terrace. Our hotel is on the lake, and the setting is beautiful. The smell of jasmine is everywhere. While we were drinking our cappuccino and eating, we watched an older gentleman fishing from his small boat. It looked like such a quaint, old world scene…and then his cell phone rang and he stood up and had a cigarette while he chatted. Old world charm with a dash of 2009.

After breakfast, we walked about 15 minutes down the promenade to catch the ferry to Bellagio. I had my new hat on and was ready and looking good in case George Clooney came looking for me. It was only a 15 minute ferry ride. Once there, we walked around the town and did some window shopping. We took a little tram ride to tour the town and get to the top of this steep lakeside town. We were hoping for an audio tour, but apparently for 8 Euros you just get the ride. We left with no sign of George. All that hat wearing for nothing. It is as hot as minestrone soup out today. I think it is better that we don’t know the exact temperature.

We came back to the room; I poured cold water over me and sat with a cold towel on my head…. I looked a bit like Mother Theresa!
Around 4:30 we went to the piazza in the old part of Verenna to get a late lunch and buy our tickets back to Milan on Wednesday. We ate a little bar called ventisettemetriquadri (yes that is a real name) and had a beer which never tasted so good! They only offered two things to eat so we tried them both. They were called Toast Gigante and Focaccia delizia; all for 12 euros.
Another walk down the passerella for a light dinner at the Hotel Olivedo. Rick Steves said it was a no nonsense staff; I would say it was a crabby owner who was not happy unless you ordered an entire dinner. I had a caprese salad and Ken had potato pappardelle. After I ordered she left grumbling in Italian; I didn’t understand the words, but clearly understood the attitude! I think that she decided to charge us for the air we were breathing…oh well.
We had a low key afternoon our 1st day in Varenna. It is mama mia hot…90+ We had an inexpensive dinner at Victoria Grill. We showed up too early for dinner (7:15), so had to hang out until 7:30.We split a Quattro formaggio pizza, 2 salads and an ice cold beer for 20 Euros, We were lucky enough to sit behind an ugly American who announced she had been an Italy a week and didn’t know a word of Italian. When the waiter wasn’t quick enough for her, she laughed and said “we’re Americans, that’s why we want things fast”. It when on and on.
After dinner we walked the passerella, a lakeside promenade, It is a beautiful town with steep paths with many stairs that I avoided. Of course, all of that walking in the heat called for gelato. Limone and caffe were the 1st flavors. A bit more walking and I wanted another gelato. Ken wasn’t interested until he tasted my new favorite flavor from La Giazzera gelateria. It is an amarena (sour cherry). A beautiful evening, with great food. The mosquitoes couldn’t even ruin it.
I forgot to tell an airport story that Joel will especially like. In Paris, as I was going through security, I was trying to explain that I would set off the alarm. I pointed to myself and said “beep, beep, beep, beep”. As the woman was doing my all too familiar “lady pat down”, she noticed the pedometer I forgot I had on my belt. She looked so alarmed and wanted to know what it was. I said “walking. counting” She called someone over who knew what it was. So, a travel tip: don’t go through airport security with a small device that has changing numbers on it strapped to your belt. For a minute, I had a vision of me face down with dogs on me. Aren’t you glad you weren’t with me Joel?
Monday: We started today with breakfast on the hotel terrace. Our hotel is on the lake, and the setting is beautiful. The smell of jasmine is everywhere. While we were drinking our cappuccino and eating, we watched an older gentleman fishing from his small boat. It looked like such a quaint, old world scene…and then his cell phone rang and he stood up and had a cigarette while he chatted. Old world charm with a dash of 2009.
After breakfast, we walked about 15 minutes down the promenade to catch the ferry to Bellagio. I had my new hat on and was ready and looking good in case George Clooney came looking for me. It was only a 15 minute ferry ride. Once there, we walked around the town and did some window shopping. We took a little tram ride to tour the town and get to the top of this steep lakeside town. We were hoping for an audio tour, but apparently for 8 Euros you just get the ride. We left with no sign of George. All that hat wearing for nothing. It is as hot as minestrone soup out today. I think it is better that we don’t know the exact temperature.
We came back to the room; I poured cold water over me and sat with a cold towel on my head…. I looked a bit like Mother Theresa!
Around 4:30 we went to the piazza in the old part of Verenna to get a late lunch and buy our tickets back to Milan on Wednesday. We ate a little bar called ventisettemetriquadri (yes that is a real name) and had a beer which never tasted so good! They only offered two things to eat so we tried them both. They were called Toast Gigante and Focaccia delizia; all for 12 euros.
Another walk down the passerella for a light dinner at the Hotel Olivedo. Rick Steves said it was a no nonsense staff; I would say it was a crabby owner who was not happy unless you ordered an entire dinner. I had a caprese salad and Ken had potato pappardelle. After I ordered she left grumbling in Italian; I didn’t understand the words, but clearly understood the attitude! I think that she decided to charge us for the air we were breathing…oh well.
6 comments:
Sally, we've been friends for 45 (OMG ... we're OLD) years and I didn't know you drank beer!! Is this just when you're traveling and it's mama-mia hot? Sounds like you're having a wonderful time. Love the detailed descriptions of your days and the people you are meeting. And in regard to the formality of "Barbara" as my user name, I already had a Google account and that's what it's picking up. So all comments from "Barbara" are really from Barb and Bob!! Enjoy .. have a beer and a gelatto for me!
All I can say is that we can't wait until we get there. AND, your hat is cute!!! Stay cool...
Jen and Brian
OK I am getting on board to follow this trip!! Can't wait to keep up with the 4 of you as you experience Italy and France. We will have to get together to compare pictures when you return. All the talk of gelato makes my mouth water. I ate so much last summer while in Italy!! The flavors are amazing...you have to eat it several times a day to try them all!
Kip
I jumped ahead of myself....When did you ever drink beer? That even sounds weird....Beer and gelato, hmmm, I would need tums...
Sounds like your having fun....
Ohhhhhhh...the flowers! Great shots. I could hunker down next to a gardenia for a very long time, just to keep that smell nearby. Yum.
Jen just shut down her computer, awaiting Jason's pick up... Get ready, 'cause here they come!
And me? I'm off to school :P , but only for a few more days!
Lynne
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